Saturday, September 29, 2007

Last full day in Vila--WOW

9.30.07

Sitting here on Sunday morning on the lanai of Room with a View. It’s fairly quiet. A few cars and trucks passing by, the birds are singing but otherwise there is stillness. Justine (the proprietor) has come out and is drinking her coffee and sitting. She is a lovely hostess. I would recommend this place for anyone visiting.
Yesterday was very full. Also like a vacation yet it was training. We started the morning by walking around the block (although a very irregular shaped one) to the home of Jane Laycock and her family. Jane is the PCMO (Peace Corps Medical Officer). She hosted training on nutrition. As everyone came straggling in we started a bit late. “No problem”. First her husband Jacko, a big strapping Englishman who sounds totally Aussie, gave us a tour of their gardens. This was both instructional and entertaining. Trees of many varieties, planted vegetables (although many were late or just starting). We were accompanied by the two children of James Bond (PC worker) who lives in a house on the perhaps acre of property. The Laycock house seemed large enough for them and their four children (aged 13-18) but not palatial. There have just completed a guesthouse. More construction work is in process. That apparently is Jacko’s business. He and Jane came to Vanuatu twenty years ago to stay a year and here they still are.
After the garden tour which was an introduction to the incredible natural growth of foods here, we had a Ni-Vanuatu woman who is a nutritionist give us a talk on the current state of Ni-Van diet. Apparently they have moved away from a sustaining diet to one that is higher and carbs, sugars and fats. Of course diabetes and heart disease have followed in abundance. They actually see these foods as status symbols. What a shame.
We moved on to three work stations. Cutting and peeling two large pumpkin/squashes for a soup, husking green coconuts and cracking and scraping dried coconuts for both the juice and the meat which would be squeezed for its juice for cooking. Then the nutritionist gave a cooking demonstration worthy of the cooking channel. She prepared a dish from the pumpkin tops (greens) and a green beans dish. Both simple and as they turned out delicious too. Soon the pumpkin soup came simple but tasty. I would have preferred a bit of spice (as I was told they don’t use much). Then a beautiful feast was put on the table. We had to eat fairly quickly for we had to be to the harbor for the afternoon. The food was very good and I tasted a bit of everything. I was quiet taken by a salad dressing of coconut milk, lemon and garlic over fresh lettuce and watercress.
Having eaten and applied sunscreen we all piled on to the back of Jacko’s dump truck for the short ride to the harbor. At the harbor Relvie (PC security director0 and Shelly (PC assistant country director) awaited. They distributed our life jackets (ours for the duration of our service) and whistles. Mike the owner of a scuba diving company a former Kiwi air force officer and cruise line employee gave us a demonstration talk on outboard motor repair, as this may be a common means of travel between nearby islands. I could just see traveling for a day to get from island to another. Sparkplugs fouling, petrol separation from the water and pull rope repair. Oh Boy. We then all boarded his large catamaran for a sail out of the harbor and to a small reef off a near by island. During the trip Mike gave another talk, this one the sharks and other sea creatures to be wary of. Good stuff. He also talked about mirror flashing and the multi-uses of a large green plastic bag. Floatation device, parka, shelter, rain collector, insulator and carry all. We then anchored and were required to jump off the boat with our life jackets on and swim back to the ladder and reboard. Easy stuff. Then we free to go snorkeling for a while. It was a nice shallow reef. Some colorful coral, a few fish, large blue starfish, sea slugs and cucumbers. One of the crew handed me a slug and it emitted a white stringy discharge. The strings stuck to my hand much like the mucilage glue from elementary school. It took the rest of the swim to remove it from my hands. Something to write home about. Ha Ha! I returned to the boat, had some grapefruit and a cookie and then nice conversation with Shelly regarding affirmations. The motoring back to port was slow. Against the wind and tide. Back on land I was ready for a shower and a nice dinner.
After cleaning up while sitting on the lanai Alyssa and Dan arrived to join Chris and Ryan in some kava then music at the festival. After two evenings alone I decided to join them. Glad I did. We took a brisk walk across town. Finally found a nakamal. I had already decided not to partake. Had a Tusker (the local beer) and sat in a smokey lean-to. Conversation good. Then we were joined by the proprietor, Daniel. Very talkative. We talk a bit of Bislama, about kastom, Very informative. We then took that first night trek through the jungle to the Festival. There must have been at least five thousand people there. Maybe more. There many small booths selling many local foods. I had a skewer of meat and peppers. Cold but tasty. Then some fried sweet potatoes and tried a lemon pie. The pie was very bland. Total cost. 180 vat ($1.80.) We made our way to the front of the stage. A troupe of island children was singing. Cute. Then a reggae band started. I had to get up to move with the music. Suddenly we saw the PCVs down front get up and we joined them to dance away to a fairly good rendition of Bob Marley music. Ending with I Shot the Sheriff. It got part of the crowd up. Mostly whites though. Then a troupe of Tahitian dancers came on. Incredibly beautiful. The young Ni-Van men didn’t want to sit down but they made to do so by a man from on stage with a flashlight. Afterwards Evan and I walked leisurely back home. I was warm and a bit tired. I sat down in the lounge chair on the lanai to cool down. Evan came out with some African music and I fell asleep.
Quite a final day here in Vila. I awoke a bit before 6 AM. Today we depart to Mangaliulu. Feel like LA staging was kindergarten. This first week in Vila was the first grade. Lots of introduction to the culture, health, safety, and language. Now we are on to adding columns.

Slow and sick day

9.29.07

Thursday afternoon there was a tickle in my throat. It then grew to a full on head cold. Everyone went to Festival One a huge music festival with groups from all over the Pacific. I choose not to go and began walking home. About half way I looked into dinner at several places I had noticed in passing. The Island Chicken was a poor man’s version of KFC, I thought of the Mama’s market (more on it later) but kept walking. In the small China town area I stepped into a very nicely appointed restaurant. I wasn’t feeling well but still hungry. At the checkout counter was a Chinese man, he took the money and spoke perfect, almost American English. So like the US. A Ni-Van waitress brought the whole white board with the day’s specials and stood it four feet away from the table for my perusal. She also put a menu on the table. Looking them both over I choose (partly on price) Combination Fried Rice and water. I took out my Bislama workbook and began to study. Behind me was table with four men, two white, two Ni-Van. Speaking in English they discussed business or other affairs. I didn’t eavesdrop. Across from me was a young couple with a baby perhaps six to eight months old. The man acknowledged me as I came in. He was a red headed white fellow perhaps 30 and his wife was a light skinned Ni-Van. The baby sat in her lap as they ate. They talked very little. Later the baby went to the man’s lap. I was pleasantly surprised at my plate of fried rice. On top of the rice was a lovely assortment of meats and vegetables. I ate and finished my homework and walked the rest of the way home. The cold was beginning to blossom. I went to bed fairly early and had a fitful sleep.
Evan I choose to walk to class. It was a full thirty minutes. I look so forward to walking so much more and having the walking to become a bit less of a workout. All day my sinuses drained. Several others in the group were in different levels of discomfort too. Our late afternoon session was a field trip to the Mama’s market to use Bislama to discover names and prices of the produce sold using Bislama. I was very intimidated. My biggest concern is my ability to learn to function with the new language. We shall see.
Still under the weather I went back to the room and listen to music and sorted through my things in preparation to for tomorrow’s move to the village. I’ll leave a full bag in storage. I read and enjoyed the time alone. Evan returned around 9PM and shared the soundtrack of Avenue Q. Sesame Street for twentysomethings. Delightful. Look forward to seeing the show someday.
Around 4AM I was wakened by several shouts and wails from the street. Thought it was earlier or later but amazed to hear the sounds of crazed young men. We had been told earlier of the Ni-Van’s susceptibility to alcohol. Friday night, pay day and the music festival. Highly recommended to stay a distance from them when the booze kicks in. Ryan and Chris saw an occurrence last night where several young men were tearing apart a house’s garden.
Language test: in English how do you pronoun “dhoti”?
FISH. GH=fi as in enough, o=I as in women, ti = sh as in motion...

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

This town is already getting too "SMOL"

9.27.07

Lot’s of stuff happened yesterday. Interviewed with the country director. Connected on several levels including baseball but no clue which island I’ll be posted to. Others walked out with a narrowing to two.Me, he just mentioned 6 or 7 islands for Rural Training Centers (RTC). Five inoculations. No big deal.
Suddenly this town seems very small. As I was leaving the PC training for the day I walked across the Au Bon Marche parking lot (big modern supermarket), Justine (woman who runs our B&B) and her two daughters were getting out of their car. I escorted Jackie (oldest volunteer here) to see the local theatre production. Wan SmolBag Theatre, “Las Kad” Last Card).
It was a trek via the bus across town and near the airport. The bus system here is very good but very different. All the buses are mini-vans, seating 11 plus the driver. There are no specific routes. They take you where ever you request for 100 vat (approx $1.00). You may have to take a very circuitous route to your destination. We had to stop at the hospital (thought some of the patients looked like inmates in orange or blue jumpsuits), passed a big soccer match. Looked like grown men in uniform with over a 100 spectators. The grass was unmowed. Then across town and through a very rural, dirt road and poor area. Finally we were at the theatre. For 100 vat we entered a 7PM production. The theatre was quiet impressive. A classic community theatre but very large by Bay Area standards. The audience was on three sides, in stadium like arrangement with individual wooden chairs covered in heavy white paint. Tons of legroom. The stage was on a 6 inch raised platform and thrust into the audience. It was approximately 24 feet across and 40 feet deep. Entrances from two sides in back and from down center and corners through the audience. A cast of 14, all speaking Bislama very fast. Understood numerous words and phrases. There was aluminum rollable scaffolding used in numerous ways. The play was absolutely outstanding. The acting superb. Reminded me of the SF Mime Troupe. They are dedicated to relevant issues. This one domestic violence, marijuana, and literally getting away with murder. I recommend you check their website http://www.wansmolbag.org/ They understand how to get to an audience. Laughter and music. One actor played an olfala (old man), bent over, begging, black magic performer, while the comic relief he was outstanding in his acting skills.
Remember I said it was seeming like a small town. I’m sitting in the playhouse and the Chinese couple and the Belgian fellow, Luc, walked in. As did 3 others from my training group.
It’s very interesting to have talks with people from other countries. Enjoy hearing their perspective on Vanuatu. Of course the opportunity to see a local theatrical group is a great incite into the community. The place was packed. Probably about 250 in attendance.
So in preparation for our service we are getting tons of information on health and security, culture (kastom) and now language.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Nakamal or wharf bar

9.26.07

Yesterday I had a sore neck and shoulder all day, so when the gang wanted me to join them at a local nakamal I said YES. We walked a few blocks and entered a lot through the side of a high chained link fence. Across an earthen rain soaked lot. Watch out for the puddles. This was the Ni Van’s equivalent to a wharf bar. Real locals a couple of benches under a tarp. 100 vat and a shell. Step outside, swallow it all, swig of water to rinse and spit. So delightful. Not. We sat down to let it take effect. A nice fellow from Santo gave way so we could sit together. Kenzie and I had a bit of conversation with him. He works here on the ships/boats to pay for his daughter’s (13, 6) education. It was a confirmation of today’s class on our mission as teachers. He was here for the family and the future. Polite fellow. Asked permission to light a cigarette. Here I was with 6 twenty-something’s. I felt at ease. Even like I could fit in. Talk of pot and relaxation. We had a second shell and then sat some more. The effect is totally physical. A little euphoric but no real high. Stepped outside in the drizzle and talked by the dock. Saw two large boats and men working. But at what I don’t know. Had one more for the road and headed back to the hotel where all the girls stay. They had prepared a meal. Several bottles of wine. I sipped some, talked a bit. Still the body was relaxed (no more pain in the neck). No appetite though. My pants all feel loose already. It truly is my desire to lose significant weight. So many desires for change just like joining the Marines 39 years ago.
Earlier we spent the afternoon at the Cultural Center Museum. Wonderful displays, good lecture and a demonstration of sand drawing (sandroing). I will see about building a canoe and some masks. Would love to create similar art. Perhaps find ways to design glass around the patterns. Bought a book on the Vanuatu history. Want to learn all I can about this beautiful country and its people.
Today we begin to learn Bislama and will have a couple of interviews and some shots. It will be the beginning of malaria meds. Very good session on it yesterday. Feel confident that with meds and preventive measures there is minimal risk of acquiring the disease. I am a cautious risk taker. Willing to try just about anything but not without forethought and preparation.

Training Day 1

9.25.07
Yesterday was the first day of training. Had a introduction from Kevin George the country director. Can see why he is held in high esteem. He is a former lawyer and peace negotiator. Measured, easy going, trustful. We had a lovely luncheon with local foods. Laplap, fruits, veggies, fish, pork chops and local string band. Talked with a few staff. Matthew, Relvie (very sharp), June and Resneth. Delightful people. After lunch we had introduction to medical training and medical kits with Jane Laycock. Aussie RN and her 13 year old daughter as a helper. She is a very realistic person. She’s fun too.
Got on line and read a few emails and responded. Dom’s most interesting. Mustn’t worry about him. Checked bank statement. Money in but must have Kevin pay the overdraft. So I emailed him. Hope he responds. I love that kid to pieces. I hope he grows from our separation.
I ventured home alone. First time to be by myself. It felt good. Read, played with iTunes and then Evan returned a bit of pizza for me. Very nice. We then talked of people here. Judging and evaluating. Couple of psychologists. Like him a lot. Went to bed very early. 9PMish. Awoke early too of course around 5:30. Its still raining, lots of birds, dogs, and now traffic.
The cold shower is half bearable Fell clean. Wonder if in the village I will have the same experience. From conversation with Relvie I have feeling I’ll be going to Tanna. We shall see.

Sunday's a day of rest

9.24.07

Sunday was a day to relax and settle in. Took ferry a few hundred to Iririki Island resort with the fellows. All of the group arrived and played in and by the pool. Relaxing and refreshing. Evan and I walked Jade and Kensie back to our room to change and then started to walk across town to their place. It was drizzling, then rain and then pouring. We got soaked to skin. But never cold. Here everyone smile and says “halo”. I love it. Bet they thought we were a bit nuts walking so wet in the rain. At the girls hotel eventually most arrived. Some snacks. Talk of kava and dinner. I didn’t care for kava and finally no one else going to eat but Evan and I. We took bus to home and into dry clothes. Across the street is very nice restaurant. Nice talk and pretty good food. Back to home and some paperwork and playing with Itunes.
So excited to get started. I hanker for the real life. Don’t want to be a tourist, visitor. I want the real life. I want to learn the language, the ways and do my part.
The most beautiful woman here is the Korean woman, Justine, who runs this B&B. She is classically small. Wears khaki short shorts and white blouse. She is here 3.5 years with two daughters. Another way to be.
One fellow volunteer’s mom is here. Sannie, she’s retired in Costa Rica. Tells of her son and her excitement for him. There are so many ways to be. So many things to do. See.
When we arrived at the hotel a Frenchman was playing the clarinet. I just spoke with him, Luc. Working here. There again ar so many things to do. I’m American, but also a citizen of planet earth. It exploration time.
I’m a talker, a story teller. Love to converse. Will ther be a time when I can be quiet. Of course I know how. Look at the days in Alameda, working on glass with no one around. I enjoyed being alone. I’m an in the now fellow. Less about the future. Less about the past. Just be and do now.

Sunday's a day of rest

9.24.07

Sunday was a day to relax and settle in. Took ferry a few hundred to Iririki Island resort with the fellows. All of the group arrived and played in and by the pool. Relaxing and refreshing. Evan and I walked Jade and Kensie back to our room to change and then started to walk across town to their place. It was drizzling, then rain and then pouring. We got soaked to skin. But never cold. Here everyone smile and says “halo”. I love it. Bet they thought we were a bit nuts walking so wet in the rain. At the girls hotel eventually most arrived. Some snacks. Talk of kava and dinner. I didn’t care for kava and finally no one else going to eat but Evan and I. We took bus to home and into dry clothes. Across the street is very nice restaurant. Nice talk and pretty good food. Back to home and some paperwork and playing with Itunes.
So excited to get started. I hanker for the real life. Don’t want to be a tourist, visitor. I want the real life. I want to learn the language, the ways and do my part.
The most beautiful woman here is the Korean woman, Justine, who runs this B&B. She is classically small. Wears khaki short shorts and white blouse. She is here 3.5 years with two daughters. Another way to be.
One fellow volunteer’s mom is here. Sannie, she’s retired in Costa Rica. Tells of her son and her excitement for him. There are so many ways to be. So many things to do. See.
When we arrived at the hotel a Frenchman was playing the clarinet. I just spoke with him, Luc. Working here. There again ar so many things to do. I’m American, but also a citizen of planet earth. It exploration time.
I’m a talker, a story teller. Love to converse. Will ther be a time when I can be quiet. Of course I know how. Look at the days in Alameda, working on glass with no one around. I enjoyed being alone. I’m an in the now fellow. Less about the future. Less about the past. Just be and do now.

Room with a View

9.23.07
From the lanai of “Room with a View” bed and breakfast in Port Vila
Looking across the water at the other peninsula, watching something drift out to sea. Awaking to the sound of a rooster crowing. I’m here, the journey begins.
After 24 hours of travel from the Sheraton at LAX to Port Vila. Arrive on the tarmac. First off the back of the plane. The Peace Corps has a reception. Coconut milk, cloth skirts, name tags, hand shakes, pictures and quick tour of Vila by Eddie from Big Island of Hawaii. Then intro by Kevin George the country director and security by Relvie. Evan (62, Jewish widower), Chris (30) 4Her from Sacramento and Ryan (28) tattooed Texan are here with me. The current group takes us to a nakamal (kava bar). Try it. Smells like carrot juice, not so terrible tasting, but little effect even after second shell. Told this morning that it wasn’t that high quality. But don’t see myself getting into it. We took an hour wokabout with Katie (NJ) and Eddie. Through the streets and even a bit of jungle to a French restaurant. So much information. They current group is diverse. From mid 60’s married couple to young 20’s. Got to know Javy from Oakland via Wisconsin. Baseball fan and looking to organize teams for the Ni Vanuatu. Perhaps I can get involved.
I looked up and three figures from the other peninsula’s beach have moved to the middle of the bay. They are barely knee deep.
This bib is run by Koreans. Breakfast is fresh French rolls, fruit, and sausages. First taste of bread fruit. Like it. Sweet and a bit sour. Texture melts in your mouth. Big seeds like kidney beans. Young fellow from Yukon (teaches in Japan), nice conversation with us new fellows. Two older French women, minimal communication. The French fellow quiet. Last night as with arrived he was playing his clarinet. Beatles tunes and more.
What are those fellows in the bay collecting?
Last night seemed like so much data transfer. Yet I know it only begins. Today is Sunday. Quiet. Quiet. Quiet. Recharge batteries and settle in. Tomorrow morning is real beginnings of training. Some trepidation about learning language. Roxanna (60s w/ hub) says her husband after year hasn’t really mastered language but is here and that the weight will fall of the big guys. I really look for that. I also look forward not to being in city. Long for the village life.
Awoke this morning, it was drizzling. Now can feel the sun beginning to strengthens is presense. Soon I’ll need sunglasses and will surely begin to perspire from the heat and humidity. As I look at the plants I’m reminded of Hawaii. At first glance of architecture it could be the Caribbean. But the people look so South Pacific, Donavan’s Reef, and National Geographic. So much ahead

Waiting to leave

So here I am with 5 hours to wait until we leave fro LAX. Then 4 more hours before departure and then 12 hours to Auckland and then 6 more hours of lay over the 3 hours to Port Vila in Vanuatu. I better get very used to waiting. It will mean lots of time to observe, listen, converse, write and be.
The day and half of Staging was very helpful. Got to do a skit and be the lead in the staging. Wanted to not take the lead in preparing the skit. But I was the only man and they 5 girls put me to the role of PCV. Fun stuff and excellent learning for the preliminaries.
Had to deal with one last financial hassle before I left. It was a money transfer issue. But I stayed cool and it is all good. I will be so thrilled to not have to deal with the complexities of our life style for the next couple of years.
I am so looking to slow down, get calm and learn new ways of being.
So here I am in the hotel lounge with a beer, a sandwich, chips, laptop and a cell phone. Everything will get simpler. At least I expect it so. Soon no phone, no daily internet, no internal combustion engines and a lot less English.
Gonna miss everyone and the pleasures and passions of my life. Baseball, movies, theatre, glass.
Send me stories of what is happening with you and yours. I will of course keep you informed with my news. But don’t worry if it is a few weeks before I respond.
Ciao