10.1.07
Sunday afternoon around 3 a van picked us up and we road for about 30 minutes to the village of Mangalilui. Awaiting us was the rest of our training group. First house we see is pink. It is my new home. I’m the gate guard. Big joke. We lineup to walk into village. A man in custom dress blows a conch shell and suddenly we are attacked by seven or eight villagers in custom dress. The attack is with screams and laughter. They are dressed in leaves and painted and carry clubs. We march into villager to a very big mango tree. It is the community center. There is a reception line of mamas in calico dresses with leis for each of us. They shake each of our hands and say “halo” There is lean-to with long benches and table, out front more benches. The new trainees go under the lean and sit on the bench. The mamas and children (pikinini) sit on the other benchs under the tree. There is a string band playing. There is a ceremony where the exchange of mats by our director Kevin George and the village chief Roi Mata. Then a big man with a bullhorn begins introductions. There are prayers and then each host family is introduced to their respective new pikinini (we are their new children). Eddie the current PCV living here takes a picture of each of the new papa, mama and pikinini. Much laughter and applause. The big man with the bullhorn is my new papa, Kalfou and his wife Winnie is my mama. Papa is my size and there is big laughter when we embrace. Two bigfalas. Then we are offered kava. I drink with my new papa. The PCTs are given something to eat. Mostly pancakes, a laplap (pudding made from manioc/casaba) and popo (papaya). Simple and sweet foods. The music starts again and I can’t help but start to move. I have a new dance partner. My papa. Apparently I am a perfect reflection of him. He is the village funny man and the chairman of the Peace Corps committee. The village enjoys our dancing and laughs big time.
Papa takes my big bag and we walk to my hut. It is 12 feet across and 16 feet deep. The side is of corrugated tin, painted Pepto-Bismol pink, with a purple door. Inside the walls are covered with different calico cloth. The floor is covered with grass mats. There is a raised bed (small twin size) with a pillow and a blanket. There is a window at the back of the house with a prop open shutter and a curtain. It is quite lovely in it simplicity. I also I have a small table and chair.
I am just now greeted by the children coming back from school. Its 7:30 am and they are very happy and excited. We exchange “halos”. The children go to the village school which is French speaking just outside the village. Maybe two minutes walk. I visited it this morning on a wokabout with my brother Ricky (pronounced ree kae). I have two brothers, Ricky 27 has a wife and two small girls. Ricky is very talkative and is my new escort. Later he comes to visit me and we will tok tok tumas. My other brother is Willie. He hasn’t said much yet.
Again last evening, after a brief settling in to my house I go to the front porch of my family. I share pictures on my computer of family, acting and my glass work. I then show papa how to type and enter on the laptop. He types the whole family’s names. I show him I have saved them and then enlarge and bold them. I am invited to coffee/dinner. It’s instant coffee and fried banana chucks rolled in flour. I eat a few as a courtesy. Then Mama and papa and Ricky talk with me. They give papa’s name as my kastom name (Kalfou). Tomorrow I’ll be asked it by my trainers. I say good night and go to sit in my doorway. Ricky comes over a little later. I have Rimsky Korsakov’s Scherezade playing. I explain the story of a thousand and one Arabian nights. I then invite him in and we talk for more than an hour. He has many questions and I tell him stories. I draw some pictures. To explain big eighteen wheel trucks to go the great distances of America. I also draw a map of the US and point out major cities and the distances. There doesn’t seem to be a total understanding of the expanse. When I go to Vila on Wednesday I’ll get on the net and copy pictures and maps for explanation. We say good night and I retire to bed under my mosquito net. It is an absolute requirement, although with weekly medication and Deet (bug repellent). I am reading a story history of Vanuatu. It makes for more understanding of this wondrous and quiet country. I look to slow down to island time.
I biggest challenge is to speak the language Bislama. It is fairly easy to read and understand (unless spoke very quick time). The language is a Pidgin English. But the order of the words is confusing for me to speak. Everyone here wants to help and they will do everything they can to get me to where I need to be.
It was difficult to get to sleep. I should not have had the coffee. I could hear the wind in the trees and against the house. Morning came early. Well before 6am. Roosters crowing. Other birds as well. I finally get out of bed a few minutes before 6 and went outside to the smol haos (bathroom). When I came out mama was at the wash table outside. I asked her if I could walk through the village on the road. She said yes but went inside to have Ricky escort me. He is a superb young man and an excellent guide and teacher. He showed me everyone’s house and told me their relationships. We walked to the salt water (ocean). Pointed out Hat Island and told me of the War Heritage of Chief Roi Mata, the fifty wives and his burial with fifty circular pig’s tusks on his arms. I learned the kastom language greeting for good morning. Malbong. So to everyone I said it. We returned for my breakfast. Bread, peanut butter, jelly and coffee. Papa comes in and informs me my kastom language name has been changed. It is now Kalowia. It means “wan gudfala man”. I am pleased with it.
Our day started with our trainers at the Mango tree community’s center. I assisted papa in taking a big table from outside into the long house. It is the church now and late it will be a school. The new church is started but has been delayed in process because of another project somewhere in Lelepa (the original home of this clan across the water at a different point. We are given the week’s schedule by Christina. Then we head off for Bislama sessions. Four of us are with Judy. She is a very patient teacher. We work outside under a roof on our mats which we bring from our mamas. It comes slow to me. We then go to the Mango tree for a lunch prepared by all the mamas. Many delicious dished. I have a few bites of several. Some meat, some beans, some rice and a fruit salad. Each of our mamas has brought our plates, glasses and a fork. They again take such wonderful care of us. We eat and then can rest. Some go for a nap. I go down to the water and wade in. I remove my shirt. I smell a bit. I soak the shirt, wipe my torso off and then put the wet shirt back on. It feels so good to be cool and not have flies landing on you. Later that proves to be a wise move as we then have a couple of sessions under the roof and I am no longer bothered by the flies. After Eddie the local PCV gives a joint talk with the chief’s wife our training ends for the day. Several of us will go snorkeling with Eddie and some of the young boys. The reef is beautiful. Many types of coral. It’s in fairly good shape once we get away from the shore. Black sea cucumbers with big bumps, large sea clams perhaps a foot across, hermit crabs, many fish of many colors. I have seen much of this both diving. But it is always wonderment below the water.
I return home. As I walk past the Peace Corps office I see papa and several other men building out back. I stop by and say Halo. Our trainers Solomon and Richard ask me about my swim in bislama. I make efforts to tell them who was with and what I saw. I say Ale and ahead to home. Mama tells me to put my dirty clothes in the bucket in my room and she will wash them. Wonderful. I head to the smol haos for a shower and to rinse my dive gear. It feels good to be clean. When I come out mama is at the back outdoor cook shed. I visit her and she is shaving coconut. I tell I have had a lesson in it. There are six small puppies lying around. I tell her of my mother’s and our family’s kinship to dogs and cats. There are no cats here. Perhaps few on the island. She is cooking coconut crab. I’m excited.
I am sitting in my doorway. Mama offers a chair but I like sitting on the stoop. I relax. I’m tired now. I try lighting my storm lantern. Mama comes over to help but it is out of kerosene. She fills it up and lights it. Now I go in to eat the crab, rice and bananas with coconut cream on them. It is very good and I enjoy it. I am just washing my hands when papa comes in with a bath towel wrapped around him. Earlier I had asked why women and children eat dinner separately from the men. He confirms “its kava time”. We leave together and he shows me to always be careful exiting my house as the corrugated tin protrudes for the wood. They all are so helpful. Its only 7:30 but I’m going to close now and read. Mi hadem wan bigfala gud dei.
FUTURE BLOGS WILL BE POSTED ON NEXT 5 WEDNESDAY'S
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Last full day in Vila--WOW
9.30.07
Sitting here on Sunday morning on the lanai of Room with a View. It’s fairly quiet. A few cars and trucks passing by, the birds are singing but otherwise there is stillness. Justine (the proprietor) has come out and is drinking her coffee and sitting. She is a lovely hostess. I would recommend this place for anyone visiting.
Yesterday was very full. Also like a vacation yet it was training. We started the morning by walking around the block (although a very irregular shaped one) to the home of Jane Laycock and her family. Jane is the PCMO (Peace Corps Medical Officer). She hosted training on nutrition. As everyone came straggling in we started a bit late. “No problem”. First her husband Jacko, a big strapping Englishman who sounds totally Aussie, gave us a tour of their gardens. This was both instructional and entertaining. Trees of many varieties, planted vegetables (although many were late or just starting). We were accompanied by the two children of James Bond (PC worker) who lives in a house on the perhaps acre of property. The Laycock house seemed large enough for them and their four children (aged 13-18) but not palatial. There have just completed a guesthouse. More construction work is in process. That apparently is Jacko’s business. He and Jane came to Vanuatu twenty years ago to stay a year and here they still are.
After the garden tour which was an introduction to the incredible natural growth of foods here, we had a Ni-Vanuatu woman who is a nutritionist give us a talk on the current state of Ni-Van diet. Apparently they have moved away from a sustaining diet to one that is higher and carbs, sugars and fats. Of course diabetes and heart disease have followed in abundance. They actually see these foods as status symbols. What a shame.
We moved on to three work stations. Cutting and peeling two large pumpkin/squashes for a soup, husking green coconuts and cracking and scraping dried coconuts for both the juice and the meat which would be squeezed for its juice for cooking. Then the nutritionist gave a cooking demonstration worthy of the cooking channel. She prepared a dish from the pumpkin tops (greens) and a green beans dish. Both simple and as they turned out delicious too. Soon the pumpkin soup came simple but tasty. I would have preferred a bit of spice (as I was told they don’t use much). Then a beautiful feast was put on the table. We had to eat fairly quickly for we had to be to the harbor for the afternoon. The food was very good and I tasted a bit of everything. I was quiet taken by a salad dressing of coconut milk, lemon and garlic over fresh lettuce and watercress.
Having eaten and applied sunscreen we all piled on to the back of Jacko’s dump truck for the short ride to the harbor. At the harbor Relvie (PC security director0 and Shelly (PC assistant country director) awaited. They distributed our life jackets (ours for the duration of our service) and whistles. Mike the owner of a scuba diving company a former Kiwi air force officer and cruise line employee gave us a demonstration talk on outboard motor repair, as this may be a common means of travel between nearby islands. I could just see traveling for a day to get from island to another. Sparkplugs fouling, petrol separation from the water and pull rope repair. Oh Boy. We then all boarded his large catamaran for a sail out of the harbor and to a small reef off a near by island. During the trip Mike gave another talk, this one the sharks and other sea creatures to be wary of. Good stuff. He also talked about mirror flashing and the multi-uses of a large green plastic bag. Floatation device, parka, shelter, rain collector, insulator and carry all. We then anchored and were required to jump off the boat with our life jackets on and swim back to the ladder and reboard. Easy stuff. Then we free to go snorkeling for a while. It was a nice shallow reef. Some colorful coral, a few fish, large blue starfish, sea slugs and cucumbers. One of the crew handed me a slug and it emitted a white stringy discharge. The strings stuck to my hand much like the mucilage glue from elementary school. It took the rest of the swim to remove it from my hands. Something to write home about. Ha Ha! I returned to the boat, had some grapefruit and a cookie and then nice conversation with Shelly regarding affirmations. The motoring back to port was slow. Against the wind and tide. Back on land I was ready for a shower and a nice dinner.
After cleaning up while sitting on the lanai Alyssa and Dan arrived to join Chris and Ryan in some kava then music at the festival. After two evenings alone I decided to join them. Glad I did. We took a brisk walk across town. Finally found a nakamal. I had already decided not to partake. Had a Tusker (the local beer) and sat in a smokey lean-to. Conversation good. Then we were joined by the proprietor, Daniel. Very talkative. We talk a bit of Bislama, about kastom, Very informative. We then took that first night trek through the jungle to the Festival. There must have been at least five thousand people there. Maybe more. There many small booths selling many local foods. I had a skewer of meat and peppers. Cold but tasty. Then some fried sweet potatoes and tried a lemon pie. The pie was very bland. Total cost. 180 vat ($1.80.) We made our way to the front of the stage. A troupe of island children was singing. Cute. Then a reggae band started. I had to get up to move with the music. Suddenly we saw the PCVs down front get up and we joined them to dance away to a fairly good rendition of Bob Marley music. Ending with I Shot the Sheriff. It got part of the crowd up. Mostly whites though. Then a troupe of Tahitian dancers came on. Incredibly beautiful. The young Ni-Van men didn’t want to sit down but they made to do so by a man from on stage with a flashlight. Afterwards Evan and I walked leisurely back home. I was warm and a bit tired. I sat down in the lounge chair on the lanai to cool down. Evan came out with some African music and I fell asleep.
Quite a final day here in Vila. I awoke a bit before 6 AM. Today we depart to Mangaliulu. Feel like LA staging was kindergarten. This first week in Vila was the first grade. Lots of introduction to the culture, health, safety, and language. Now we are on to adding columns.
Sitting here on Sunday morning on the lanai of Room with a View. It’s fairly quiet. A few cars and trucks passing by, the birds are singing but otherwise there is stillness. Justine (the proprietor) has come out and is drinking her coffee and sitting. She is a lovely hostess. I would recommend this place for anyone visiting.
Yesterday was very full. Also like a vacation yet it was training. We started the morning by walking around the block (although a very irregular shaped one) to the home of Jane Laycock and her family. Jane is the PCMO (Peace Corps Medical Officer). She hosted training on nutrition. As everyone came straggling in we started a bit late. “No problem”. First her husband Jacko, a big strapping Englishman who sounds totally Aussie, gave us a tour of their gardens. This was both instructional and entertaining. Trees of many varieties, planted vegetables (although many were late or just starting). We were accompanied by the two children of James Bond (PC worker) who lives in a house on the perhaps acre of property. The Laycock house seemed large enough for them and their four children (aged 13-18) but not palatial. There have just completed a guesthouse. More construction work is in process. That apparently is Jacko’s business. He and Jane came to Vanuatu twenty years ago to stay a year and here they still are.
After the garden tour which was an introduction to the incredible natural growth of foods here, we had a Ni-Vanuatu woman who is a nutritionist give us a talk on the current state of Ni-Van diet. Apparently they have moved away from a sustaining diet to one that is higher and carbs, sugars and fats. Of course diabetes and heart disease have followed in abundance. They actually see these foods as status symbols. What a shame.
We moved on to three work stations. Cutting and peeling two large pumpkin/squashes for a soup, husking green coconuts and cracking and scraping dried coconuts for both the juice and the meat which would be squeezed for its juice for cooking. Then the nutritionist gave a cooking demonstration worthy of the cooking channel. She prepared a dish from the pumpkin tops (greens) and a green beans dish. Both simple and as they turned out delicious too. Soon the pumpkin soup came simple but tasty. I would have preferred a bit of spice (as I was told they don’t use much). Then a beautiful feast was put on the table. We had to eat fairly quickly for we had to be to the harbor for the afternoon. The food was very good and I tasted a bit of everything. I was quiet taken by a salad dressing of coconut milk, lemon and garlic over fresh lettuce and watercress.
Having eaten and applied sunscreen we all piled on to the back of Jacko’s dump truck for the short ride to the harbor. At the harbor Relvie (PC security director0 and Shelly (PC assistant country director) awaited. They distributed our life jackets (ours for the duration of our service) and whistles. Mike the owner of a scuba diving company a former Kiwi air force officer and cruise line employee gave us a demonstration talk on outboard motor repair, as this may be a common means of travel between nearby islands. I could just see traveling for a day to get from island to another. Sparkplugs fouling, petrol separation from the water and pull rope repair. Oh Boy. We then all boarded his large catamaran for a sail out of the harbor and to a small reef off a near by island. During the trip Mike gave another talk, this one the sharks and other sea creatures to be wary of. Good stuff. He also talked about mirror flashing and the multi-uses of a large green plastic bag. Floatation device, parka, shelter, rain collector, insulator and carry all. We then anchored and were required to jump off the boat with our life jackets on and swim back to the ladder and reboard. Easy stuff. Then we free to go snorkeling for a while. It was a nice shallow reef. Some colorful coral, a few fish, large blue starfish, sea slugs and cucumbers. One of the crew handed me a slug and it emitted a white stringy discharge. The strings stuck to my hand much like the mucilage glue from elementary school. It took the rest of the swim to remove it from my hands. Something to write home about. Ha Ha! I returned to the boat, had some grapefruit and a cookie and then nice conversation with Shelly regarding affirmations. The motoring back to port was slow. Against the wind and tide. Back on land I was ready for a shower and a nice dinner.
After cleaning up while sitting on the lanai Alyssa and Dan arrived to join Chris and Ryan in some kava then music at the festival. After two evenings alone I decided to join them. Glad I did. We took a brisk walk across town. Finally found a nakamal. I had already decided not to partake. Had a Tusker (the local beer) and sat in a smokey lean-to. Conversation good. Then we were joined by the proprietor, Daniel. Very talkative. We talk a bit of Bislama, about kastom, Very informative. We then took that first night trek through the jungle to the Festival. There must have been at least five thousand people there. Maybe more. There many small booths selling many local foods. I had a skewer of meat and peppers. Cold but tasty. Then some fried sweet potatoes and tried a lemon pie. The pie was very bland. Total cost. 180 vat ($1.80.) We made our way to the front of the stage. A troupe of island children was singing. Cute. Then a reggae band started. I had to get up to move with the music. Suddenly we saw the PCVs down front get up and we joined them to dance away to a fairly good rendition of Bob Marley music. Ending with I Shot the Sheriff. It got part of the crowd up. Mostly whites though. Then a troupe of Tahitian dancers came on. Incredibly beautiful. The young Ni-Van men didn’t want to sit down but they made to do so by a man from on stage with a flashlight. Afterwards Evan and I walked leisurely back home. I was warm and a bit tired. I sat down in the lounge chair on the lanai to cool down. Evan came out with some African music and I fell asleep.
Quite a final day here in Vila. I awoke a bit before 6 AM. Today we depart to Mangaliulu. Feel like LA staging was kindergarten. This first week in Vila was the first grade. Lots of introduction to the culture, health, safety, and language. Now we are on to adding columns.
Slow and sick day
9.29.07
Thursday afternoon there was a tickle in my throat. It then grew to a full on head cold. Everyone went to Festival One a huge music festival with groups from all over the Pacific. I choose not to go and began walking home. About half way I looked into dinner at several places I had noticed in passing. The Island Chicken was a poor man’s version of KFC, I thought of the Mama’s market (more on it later) but kept walking. In the small China town area I stepped into a very nicely appointed restaurant. I wasn’t feeling well but still hungry. At the checkout counter was a Chinese man, he took the money and spoke perfect, almost American English. So like the US. A Ni-Van waitress brought the whole white board with the day’s specials and stood it four feet away from the table for my perusal. She also put a menu on the table. Looking them both over I choose (partly on price) Combination Fried Rice and water. I took out my Bislama workbook and began to study. Behind me was table with four men, two white, two Ni-Van. Speaking in English they discussed business or other affairs. I didn’t eavesdrop. Across from me was a young couple with a baby perhaps six to eight months old. The man acknowledged me as I came in. He was a red headed white fellow perhaps 30 and his wife was a light skinned Ni-Van. The baby sat in her lap as they ate. They talked very little. Later the baby went to the man’s lap. I was pleasantly surprised at my plate of fried rice. On top of the rice was a lovely assortment of meats and vegetables. I ate and finished my homework and walked the rest of the way home. The cold was beginning to blossom. I went to bed fairly early and had a fitful sleep.
Evan I choose to walk to class. It was a full thirty minutes. I look so forward to walking so much more and having the walking to become a bit less of a workout. All day my sinuses drained. Several others in the group were in different levels of discomfort too. Our late afternoon session was a field trip to the Mama’s market to use Bislama to discover names and prices of the produce sold using Bislama. I was very intimidated. My biggest concern is my ability to learn to function with the new language. We shall see.
Still under the weather I went back to the room and listen to music and sorted through my things in preparation to for tomorrow’s move to the village. I’ll leave a full bag in storage. I read and enjoyed the time alone. Evan returned around 9PM and shared the soundtrack of Avenue Q. Sesame Street for twentysomethings. Delightful. Look forward to seeing the show someday.
Around 4AM I was wakened by several shouts and wails from the street. Thought it was earlier or later but amazed to hear the sounds of crazed young men. We had been told earlier of the Ni-Van’s susceptibility to alcohol. Friday night, pay day and the music festival. Highly recommended to stay a distance from them when the booze kicks in. Ryan and Chris saw an occurrence last night where several young men were tearing apart a house’s garden.
Language test: in English how do you pronoun “dhoti”?
FISH. GH=fi as in enough, o=I as in women, ti = sh as in motion...
Thursday afternoon there was a tickle in my throat. It then grew to a full on head cold. Everyone went to Festival One a huge music festival with groups from all over the Pacific. I choose not to go and began walking home. About half way I looked into dinner at several places I had noticed in passing. The Island Chicken was a poor man’s version of KFC, I thought of the Mama’s market (more on it later) but kept walking. In the small China town area I stepped into a very nicely appointed restaurant. I wasn’t feeling well but still hungry. At the checkout counter was a Chinese man, he took the money and spoke perfect, almost American English. So like the US. A Ni-Van waitress brought the whole white board with the day’s specials and stood it four feet away from the table for my perusal. She also put a menu on the table. Looking them both over I choose (partly on price) Combination Fried Rice and water. I took out my Bislama workbook and began to study. Behind me was table with four men, two white, two Ni-Van. Speaking in English they discussed business or other affairs. I didn’t eavesdrop. Across from me was a young couple with a baby perhaps six to eight months old. The man acknowledged me as I came in. He was a red headed white fellow perhaps 30 and his wife was a light skinned Ni-Van. The baby sat in her lap as they ate. They talked very little. Later the baby went to the man’s lap. I was pleasantly surprised at my plate of fried rice. On top of the rice was a lovely assortment of meats and vegetables. I ate and finished my homework and walked the rest of the way home. The cold was beginning to blossom. I went to bed fairly early and had a fitful sleep.
Evan I choose to walk to class. It was a full thirty minutes. I look so forward to walking so much more and having the walking to become a bit less of a workout. All day my sinuses drained. Several others in the group were in different levels of discomfort too. Our late afternoon session was a field trip to the Mama’s market to use Bislama to discover names and prices of the produce sold using Bislama. I was very intimidated. My biggest concern is my ability to learn to function with the new language. We shall see.
Still under the weather I went back to the room and listen to music and sorted through my things in preparation to for tomorrow’s move to the village. I’ll leave a full bag in storage. I read and enjoyed the time alone. Evan returned around 9PM and shared the soundtrack of Avenue Q. Sesame Street for twentysomethings. Delightful. Look forward to seeing the show someday.
Around 4AM I was wakened by several shouts and wails from the street. Thought it was earlier or later but amazed to hear the sounds of crazed young men. We had been told earlier of the Ni-Van’s susceptibility to alcohol. Friday night, pay day and the music festival. Highly recommended to stay a distance from them when the booze kicks in. Ryan and Chris saw an occurrence last night where several young men were tearing apart a house’s garden.
Language test: in English how do you pronoun “dhoti”?
FISH. GH=fi as in enough, o=I as in women, ti = sh as in motion...
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
This town is already getting too "SMOL"
9.27.07
Lot’s of stuff happened yesterday. Interviewed with the country director. Connected on several levels including baseball but no clue which island I’ll be posted to. Others walked out with a narrowing to two.Me, he just mentioned 6 or 7 islands for Rural Training Centers (RTC). Five inoculations. No big deal.
Suddenly this town seems very small. As I was leaving the PC training for the day I walked across the Au Bon Marche parking lot (big modern supermarket), Justine (woman who runs our B&B) and her two daughters were getting out of their car. I escorted Jackie (oldest volunteer here) to see the local theatre production. Wan SmolBag Theatre, “Las Kad” Last Card).
It was a trek via the bus across town and near the airport. The bus system here is very good but very different. All the buses are mini-vans, seating 11 plus the driver. There are no specific routes. They take you where ever you request for 100 vat (approx $1.00). You may have to take a very circuitous route to your destination. We had to stop at the hospital (thought some of the patients looked like inmates in orange or blue jumpsuits), passed a big soccer match. Looked like grown men in uniform with over a 100 spectators. The grass was unmowed. Then across town and through a very rural, dirt road and poor area. Finally we were at the theatre. For 100 vat we entered a 7PM production. The theatre was quiet impressive. A classic community theatre but very large by Bay Area standards. The audience was on three sides, in stadium like arrangement with individual wooden chairs covered in heavy white paint. Tons of legroom. The stage was on a 6 inch raised platform and thrust into the audience. It was approximately 24 feet across and 40 feet deep. Entrances from two sides in back and from down center and corners through the audience. A cast of 14, all speaking Bislama very fast. Understood numerous words and phrases. There was aluminum rollable scaffolding used in numerous ways. The play was absolutely outstanding. The acting superb. Reminded me of the SF Mime Troupe. They are dedicated to relevant issues. This one domestic violence, marijuana, and literally getting away with murder. I recommend you check their website http://www.wansmolbag.org/ They understand how to get to an audience. Laughter and music. One actor played an olfala (old man), bent over, begging, black magic performer, while the comic relief he was outstanding in his acting skills.
Remember I said it was seeming like a small town. I’m sitting in the playhouse and the Chinese couple and the Belgian fellow, Luc, walked in. As did 3 others from my training group.
It’s very interesting to have talks with people from other countries. Enjoy hearing their perspective on Vanuatu. Of course the opportunity to see a local theatrical group is a great incite into the community. The place was packed. Probably about 250 in attendance.
So in preparation for our service we are getting tons of information on health and security, culture (kastom) and now language.
Lot’s of stuff happened yesterday. Interviewed with the country director. Connected on several levels including baseball but no clue which island I’ll be posted to. Others walked out with a narrowing to two.Me, he just mentioned 6 or 7 islands for Rural Training Centers (RTC). Five inoculations. No big deal.
Suddenly this town seems very small. As I was leaving the PC training for the day I walked across the Au Bon Marche parking lot (big modern supermarket), Justine (woman who runs our B&B) and her two daughters were getting out of their car. I escorted Jackie (oldest volunteer here) to see the local theatre production. Wan SmolBag Theatre, “Las Kad” Last Card).
It was a trek via the bus across town and near the airport. The bus system here is very good but very different. All the buses are mini-vans, seating 11 plus the driver. There are no specific routes. They take you where ever you request for 100 vat (approx $1.00). You may have to take a very circuitous route to your destination. We had to stop at the hospital (thought some of the patients looked like inmates in orange or blue jumpsuits), passed a big soccer match. Looked like grown men in uniform with over a 100 spectators. The grass was unmowed. Then across town and through a very rural, dirt road and poor area. Finally we were at the theatre. For 100 vat we entered a 7PM production. The theatre was quiet impressive. A classic community theatre but very large by Bay Area standards. The audience was on three sides, in stadium like arrangement with individual wooden chairs covered in heavy white paint. Tons of legroom. The stage was on a 6 inch raised platform and thrust into the audience. It was approximately 24 feet across and 40 feet deep. Entrances from two sides in back and from down center and corners through the audience. A cast of 14, all speaking Bislama very fast. Understood numerous words and phrases. There was aluminum rollable scaffolding used in numerous ways. The play was absolutely outstanding. The acting superb. Reminded me of the SF Mime Troupe. They are dedicated to relevant issues. This one domestic violence, marijuana, and literally getting away with murder. I recommend you check their website http://www.wansmolbag.org/ They understand how to get to an audience. Laughter and music. One actor played an olfala (old man), bent over, begging, black magic performer, while the comic relief he was outstanding in his acting skills.
Remember I said it was seeming like a small town. I’m sitting in the playhouse and the Chinese couple and the Belgian fellow, Luc, walked in. As did 3 others from my training group.
It’s very interesting to have talks with people from other countries. Enjoy hearing their perspective on Vanuatu. Of course the opportunity to see a local theatrical group is a great incite into the community. The place was packed. Probably about 250 in attendance.
So in preparation for our service we are getting tons of information on health and security, culture (kastom) and now language.
Tuesday, September 25, 2007
Nakamal or wharf bar
9.26.07
Yesterday I had a sore neck and shoulder all day, so when the gang wanted me to join them at a local nakamal I said YES. We walked a few blocks and entered a lot through the side of a high chained link fence. Across an earthen rain soaked lot. Watch out for the puddles. This was the Ni Van’s equivalent to a wharf bar. Real locals a couple of benches under a tarp. 100 vat and a shell. Step outside, swallow it all, swig of water to rinse and spit. So delightful. Not. We sat down to let it take effect. A nice fellow from Santo gave way so we could sit together. Kenzie and I had a bit of conversation with him. He works here on the ships/boats to pay for his daughter’s (13, 6) education. It was a confirmation of today’s class on our mission as teachers. He was here for the family and the future. Polite fellow. Asked permission to light a cigarette. Here I was with 6 twenty-something’s. I felt at ease. Even like I could fit in. Talk of pot and relaxation. We had a second shell and then sat some more. The effect is totally physical. A little euphoric but no real high. Stepped outside in the drizzle and talked by the dock. Saw two large boats and men working. But at what I don’t know. Had one more for the road and headed back to the hotel where all the girls stay. They had prepared a meal. Several bottles of wine. I sipped some, talked a bit. Still the body was relaxed (no more pain in the neck). No appetite though. My pants all feel loose already. It truly is my desire to lose significant weight. So many desires for change just like joining the Marines 39 years ago.
Earlier we spent the afternoon at the Cultural Center Museum. Wonderful displays, good lecture and a demonstration of sand drawing (sandroing). I will see about building a canoe and some masks. Would love to create similar art. Perhaps find ways to design glass around the patterns. Bought a book on the Vanuatu history. Want to learn all I can about this beautiful country and its people.
Today we begin to learn Bislama and will have a couple of interviews and some shots. It will be the beginning of malaria meds. Very good session on it yesterday. Feel confident that with meds and preventive measures there is minimal risk of acquiring the disease. I am a cautious risk taker. Willing to try just about anything but not without forethought and preparation.
Yesterday I had a sore neck and shoulder all day, so when the gang wanted me to join them at a local nakamal I said YES. We walked a few blocks and entered a lot through the side of a high chained link fence. Across an earthen rain soaked lot. Watch out for the puddles. This was the Ni Van’s equivalent to a wharf bar. Real locals a couple of benches under a tarp. 100 vat and a shell. Step outside, swallow it all, swig of water to rinse and spit. So delightful. Not. We sat down to let it take effect. A nice fellow from Santo gave way so we could sit together. Kenzie and I had a bit of conversation with him. He works here on the ships/boats to pay for his daughter’s (13, 6) education. It was a confirmation of today’s class on our mission as teachers. He was here for the family and the future. Polite fellow. Asked permission to light a cigarette. Here I was with 6 twenty-something’s. I felt at ease. Even like I could fit in. Talk of pot and relaxation. We had a second shell and then sat some more. The effect is totally physical. A little euphoric but no real high. Stepped outside in the drizzle and talked by the dock. Saw two large boats and men working. But at what I don’t know. Had one more for the road and headed back to the hotel where all the girls stay. They had prepared a meal. Several bottles of wine. I sipped some, talked a bit. Still the body was relaxed (no more pain in the neck). No appetite though. My pants all feel loose already. It truly is my desire to lose significant weight. So many desires for change just like joining the Marines 39 years ago.
Earlier we spent the afternoon at the Cultural Center Museum. Wonderful displays, good lecture and a demonstration of sand drawing (sandroing). I will see about building a canoe and some masks. Would love to create similar art. Perhaps find ways to design glass around the patterns. Bought a book on the Vanuatu history. Want to learn all I can about this beautiful country and its people.
Today we begin to learn Bislama and will have a couple of interviews and some shots. It will be the beginning of malaria meds. Very good session on it yesterday. Feel confident that with meds and preventive measures there is minimal risk of acquiring the disease. I am a cautious risk taker. Willing to try just about anything but not without forethought and preparation.
Training Day 1
9.25.07
Yesterday was the first day of training. Had a introduction from Kevin George the country director. Can see why he is held in high esteem. He is a former lawyer and peace negotiator. Measured, easy going, trustful. We had a lovely luncheon with local foods. Laplap, fruits, veggies, fish, pork chops and local string band. Talked with a few staff. Matthew, Relvie (very sharp), June and Resneth. Delightful people. After lunch we had introduction to medical training and medical kits with Jane Laycock. Aussie RN and her 13 year old daughter as a helper. She is a very realistic person. She’s fun too.
Got on line and read a few emails and responded. Dom’s most interesting. Mustn’t worry about him. Checked bank statement. Money in but must have Kevin pay the overdraft. So I emailed him. Hope he responds. I love that kid to pieces. I hope he grows from our separation.
I ventured home alone. First time to be by myself. It felt good. Read, played with iTunes and then Evan returned a bit of pizza for me. Very nice. We then talked of people here. Judging and evaluating. Couple of psychologists. Like him a lot. Went to bed very early. 9PMish. Awoke early too of course around 5:30. Its still raining, lots of birds, dogs, and now traffic.
The cold shower is half bearable Fell clean. Wonder if in the village I will have the same experience. From conversation with Relvie I have feeling I’ll be going to Tanna. We shall see.
Yesterday was the first day of training. Had a introduction from Kevin George the country director. Can see why he is held in high esteem. He is a former lawyer and peace negotiator. Measured, easy going, trustful. We had a lovely luncheon with local foods. Laplap, fruits, veggies, fish, pork chops and local string band. Talked with a few staff. Matthew, Relvie (very sharp), June and Resneth. Delightful people. After lunch we had introduction to medical training and medical kits with Jane Laycock. Aussie RN and her 13 year old daughter as a helper. She is a very realistic person. She’s fun too.
Got on line and read a few emails and responded. Dom’s most interesting. Mustn’t worry about him. Checked bank statement. Money in but must have Kevin pay the overdraft. So I emailed him. Hope he responds. I love that kid to pieces. I hope he grows from our separation.
I ventured home alone. First time to be by myself. It felt good. Read, played with iTunes and then Evan returned a bit of pizza for me. Very nice. We then talked of people here. Judging and evaluating. Couple of psychologists. Like him a lot. Went to bed very early. 9PMish. Awoke early too of course around 5:30. Its still raining, lots of birds, dogs, and now traffic.
The cold shower is half bearable Fell clean. Wonder if in the village I will have the same experience. From conversation with Relvie I have feeling I’ll be going to Tanna. We shall see.
Sunday's a day of rest
9.24.07
Sunday was a day to relax and settle in. Took ferry a few hundred to Iririki Island resort with the fellows. All of the group arrived and played in and by the pool. Relaxing and refreshing. Evan and I walked Jade and Kensie back to our room to change and then started to walk across town to their place. It was drizzling, then rain and then pouring. We got soaked to skin. But never cold. Here everyone smile and says “halo”. I love it. Bet they thought we were a bit nuts walking so wet in the rain. At the girls hotel eventually most arrived. Some snacks. Talk of kava and dinner. I didn’t care for kava and finally no one else going to eat but Evan and I. We took bus to home and into dry clothes. Across the street is very nice restaurant. Nice talk and pretty good food. Back to home and some paperwork and playing with Itunes.
So excited to get started. I hanker for the real life. Don’t want to be a tourist, visitor. I want the real life. I want to learn the language, the ways and do my part.
The most beautiful woman here is the Korean woman, Justine, who runs this B&B. She is classically small. Wears khaki short shorts and white blouse. She is here 3.5 years with two daughters. Another way to be.
One fellow volunteer’s mom is here. Sannie, she’s retired in Costa Rica. Tells of her son and her excitement for him. There are so many ways to be. So many things to do. See.
When we arrived at the hotel a Frenchman was playing the clarinet. I just spoke with him, Luc. Working here. There again ar so many things to do. I’m American, but also a citizen of planet earth. It exploration time.
I’m a talker, a story teller. Love to converse. Will ther be a time when I can be quiet. Of course I know how. Look at the days in Alameda, working on glass with no one around. I enjoyed being alone. I’m an in the now fellow. Less about the future. Less about the past. Just be and do now.
Sunday was a day to relax and settle in. Took ferry a few hundred to Iririki Island resort with the fellows. All of the group arrived and played in and by the pool. Relaxing and refreshing. Evan and I walked Jade and Kensie back to our room to change and then started to walk across town to their place. It was drizzling, then rain and then pouring. We got soaked to skin. But never cold. Here everyone smile and says “halo”. I love it. Bet they thought we were a bit nuts walking so wet in the rain. At the girls hotel eventually most arrived. Some snacks. Talk of kava and dinner. I didn’t care for kava and finally no one else going to eat but Evan and I. We took bus to home and into dry clothes. Across the street is very nice restaurant. Nice talk and pretty good food. Back to home and some paperwork and playing with Itunes.
So excited to get started. I hanker for the real life. Don’t want to be a tourist, visitor. I want the real life. I want to learn the language, the ways and do my part.
The most beautiful woman here is the Korean woman, Justine, who runs this B&B. She is classically small. Wears khaki short shorts and white blouse. She is here 3.5 years with two daughters. Another way to be.
One fellow volunteer’s mom is here. Sannie, she’s retired in Costa Rica. Tells of her son and her excitement for him. There are so many ways to be. So many things to do. See.
When we arrived at the hotel a Frenchman was playing the clarinet. I just spoke with him, Luc. Working here. There again ar so many things to do. I’m American, but also a citizen of planet earth. It exploration time.
I’m a talker, a story teller. Love to converse. Will ther be a time when I can be quiet. Of course I know how. Look at the days in Alameda, working on glass with no one around. I enjoyed being alone. I’m an in the now fellow. Less about the future. Less about the past. Just be and do now.
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