Nakamal or wharf bar

9.26.07

Yesterday I had a sore neck and shoulder all day, so when the gang wanted me to join them at a local nakamal I said YES. We walked a few blocks and entered a lot through the side of a high chained link fence. Across an earthen rain soaked lot. Watch out for the puddles. This was the Ni Van’s equivalent to a wharf bar. Real locals a couple of benches under a tarp. 100 vat and a shell. Step outside, swallow it all, swig of water to rinse and spit. So delightful. Not. We sat down to let it take effect. A nice fellow from Santo gave way so we could sit together. Kenzie and I had a bit of conversation with him. He works here on the ships/boats to pay for his daughter’s (13, 6) education. It was a confirmation of today’s class on our mission as teachers. He was here for the family and the future. Polite fellow. Asked permission to light a cigarette. Here I was with 6 twenty-something’s. I felt at ease. Even like I could fit in. Talk of pot and relaxation. We had a second shell and then sat some more. The effect is totally physical. A little euphoric but no real high. Stepped outside in the drizzle and talked by the dock. Saw two large boats and men working. But at what I don’t know. Had one more for the road and headed back to the hotel where all the girls stay. They had prepared a meal. Several bottles of wine. I sipped some, talked a bit. Still the body was relaxed (no more pain in the neck). No appetite though. My pants all feel loose already. It truly is my desire to lose significant weight. So many desires for change just like joining the Marines 39 years ago.
Earlier we spent the afternoon at the Cultural Center Museum. Wonderful displays, good lecture and a demonstration of sand drawing (sandroing). I will see about building a canoe and some masks. Would love to create similar art. Perhaps find ways to design glass around the patterns. Bought a book on the Vanuatu history. Want to learn all I can about this beautiful country and its people.
Today we begin to learn Bislama and will have a couple of interviews and some shots. It will be the beginning of malaria meds. Very good session on it yesterday. Feel confident that with meds and preventive measures there is minimal risk of acquiring the disease. I am a cautious risk taker. Willing to try just about anything but not without forethought and preparation.